This is surprisingly aromatic, offering green melon, light florality, apricot, apple, pear, and citrus peel. The palate is full of energy and detail, rounded with lifting acidity. There’s fresh herbaceousness as well orchard fruit, with a green theme running throughout (think thyme, celery, lime, and Bartlett pear). The wine is medium bodied, and there’s a flash of white pepper on the long finish.

WINE INFORMATION

Graham Tatomer started working at Santa Barbara Winery, home to some of California’s oldest Riesling plantings, while still in high school. It started off as a paycheck but soon became a passion. He says, “The sites that excite me have been the coldest ones, lending to wines of lighter weight, nuanced flavors, and bracing acidity. Riesling is the ultimate grape to pursue these characteristics. No other grape conveys its region’s character and varietal flavor with the power, focus, and beauty the way Riesling does.”

To immerse himself in growing and vinifying the grape, in 2003 he moved to the Wachau in Austria. He found work at Weingut Knoll, where he was introduced to Grüner Veltliner. An intended 10-week trip turned into years, working in both the vineyard and cellar. He founded Tatomer Winery in 2008, making 400 cases the first year. He started with two Riesling vineyards and two for Grüner and has developed more acreage for Riesling. He also makes Pinot Noir. Today he produces about 4,100 cases annually, making 15 wines. While in Austria, he worked in steep terraced vineyards. The last row, closest to the stone wall of the next terrace, was hard to work but had the ripest fruit. Tending and picking it meant that your back was against the wall, the source of “hinter der Mauer,” which translates to “back against the wall.”

Grapes for this wine come from two Grüner vineyards (John Sebastiano, Sta. Rita Hills AVA and La Estancia, Sta. Lucia Highlands AVA; the Kick-On Ranch (Sta. Barbara AVA) provides the Riesling. Grapes are whole-cluster pressed, fermented and aged in mostly stainless steel with a small percentage in large neutral puncheons. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. 1500 cases were made.

East Asian (Chinese/Japanese/Korean), Fish (white), Green Salads, Hors d'oeuvres, Just for Cocktailing, Perfect Aperitif , Shellfish, Spicy Food, Sushi, Thai or Vietnamese