In 1999, after a long search, winemaker Rosalía Molina and her husband viticulturalist Manolo Garote purchased a small property and added to its plantings. They currently grow varieties that are suited to the particular parcels of their now 120-hectare organic estate, even when these are unusual for Spain. Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Garnacha, Syrah, Touriga Nacional, and Bobal are the reds; Petit Manseng and Muscat à Petit Grains (used for one of Spain’s three ice wines!) are the whites. Finca Altolandon is an organic and certified vegan, situated at a hot, dry altitude of 1100 meters in Manchuela, where the Mediterranean-coast ranges of Valencia meet the large central plateau. Soils here are rocky and low in organic matter, and the wind is constant, reducing disease pressure. The higher altitude (the vineyards are among Spain’s highest) results in more and better solar radiation, as well as a cooling effect that increases acidity due to day-night temperature differentials. These factors combine to produce fully ripe yet high-acid and high-tannin Garnacha and Bobal grapes. Acidity and tannin add to color, breadth, and depth of aroma, as well as making the wine suitable for barrel aging. The winery itself is located in the heart of the vineyards, reducing transport time and maintaining freshness. The couple sells 70% of its organic fruit and makes six wines from the rest, 80% of which is exported.

Grapes for this wine come from a vineyard with north-south exposure and are harvested by hand. They go through a two-week prefermentation maceration, and ferment in 6000-liter steel tank with native yeasts for five weeks. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered with very little sulfur (and sulfur is only used at bottling). It ages four months in third-use 225-liter lightly toasted French oak barrels.

Bobal is an important but not widely known dark-skinned Spanish grape variety grown mainly in Valencia, Alicante, and Utiel-Requena in southeastern Spain. A prolific and reliable grower, it was used primarily in the for bulk wine, providing color and spice. In the last decade, however, some producers, particularly those whose vineyards are at higher altitudes, have lowered yields to produce single-varietal wines. Bobal retains acidity better than Monastrell and is lower in alcohol, so its wines are capable of greater liveliness and freshness.

TASTING NOTES

Dark and densely colored. Aromas of spice, pepper, plum skin, dark chocolate, wood, and a touch of licorice. The palate is supple, with working tannins and moderate acidity. A thread of black pepper runs throughout but stays in the background. Grilled black plum dominates the fruit. Flavorful, medium plus in body, with a long finish.

FOOD PAIRING

This wine can take some spice—try it with chili, Jamaican spiced pork, ribs, or black beans with corn, smoked paprika, and chorizo. Pair with Manchego and other cheeses. A wide variety of tapas also fits the bill.

Charcuterie, Grilled preparations, Mexican, Mushrooms, Pork, Slow-smoked Barbeque/BBQ Sauce